I'm an engineering student planning to buy a Moto Book 60 Pro, and I've never used Linux or installed an operating system before. I'm considering using Bluefin as my only OS for college work, programming, everyday use, and media. I like its Fedora base and atomic design because I'd prefer not to spend a lot of time maintaining the system.
When the laptop arrives, I was planning to boot into Windows once, test the hardware, confirm activation, save anything important, and then erase the entire internal SSD before installing Bluefin. However, I've never worked with partitions, bootloaders, BIOS/UEFI settings, or a full disk wipe, so I'd like to know what I should prepare first.
Should I save any Windows drivers, recovery files, firmware details, or other information before deleting Windows? Are there BIOS or UEFI settings I should check, or is it best to leave the defaults alone? I understand that Bluefin is not intended for dual booting from the same physical drive, and I'm happy to dedicate the whole SSD to Linux.
I'd also like to keep my options open. If I decide to return to Windows in a year or two, can I simply download Windows installation media and reinstall it, or should I preserve something now? Finally, are there any Moto Book 60 Pro hardware issues I should investigate first, and should I consider regular Fedora instead of Bluefin as a first Linux installation?
5 Answers
The biggest concern for an engineering student may not be the installation. Check whether your courses require Windows-only programs such as CAD, simulation, or specialized laboratory software. Some applications work through compatibility layers, but that is not guaranteed. Your school might provide remote desktop access, virtual machines, or computer labs, but you should confirm that before deleting Windows.
Also, you probably do not need an expensive high-end laptop solely for typical coursework. Make sure the model’s hardware and warranty fit your actual classes, not just the operating system you want to run.
Bluefin can be a reasonable choice if you like its workflow, but it is worth understanding the trade-offs before making it your only system. Regular Fedora is more conventional and may be easier to troubleshoot because there are more general guides and users familiar with it. Whichever one you choose, follow the project’s official documentation instead of relying on random videos or automated advice.
You can also install Linux temporarily on an external SSD or test the live environment first. That will not reveal every issue, especially suspend and fingerprint support, but it can confirm that the display, keyboard, network, audio, and graphics are usable.
Before wiping anything, test every component under Windows: Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, audio, webcam, fingerprint reader if present, display brightness, sleep/wake, charging, and any special function keys. Also install available firmware updates from the manufacturer. Hardware working in Windows does not guarantee identical Linux support, so search for reports about this exact model and check Bluefin’s hardware and installation documentation.
You generally do not need to preserve Windows drivers; Linux uses its own drivers, and Windows drivers can be downloaded again later. Make a Windows installer USB and, if possible, keep the manufacturer’s recovery image or download page available. Windows activation is commonly tied to the laptop’s embedded license and hardware, and signing in with a Microsoft account may associate it with your account, but recording the activation status before wiping is still sensible.
The Windows key may be embedded in the firmware or automatically recognized after reinstalling, so manually copying a key is often unnecessary. A recovery image is still useful because it can contain vendor-specific utilities and firmware tools.
Returning to Windows later is usually straightforward: back up your Linux data, create Windows installation media, boot it in UEFI mode, delete the Linux partitions, and install Windows. Activation will often restore automatically on the same machine, but it is wise to keep the original recovery media or a record of the license status. The important thing is to maintain independent backups of personal files; neither operating system should be treated as the backup.
For the installation itself, back up anything you care about, verify the Bluefin image checksum if the documentation recommends it, and create the installer USB from the official instructions. Use UEFI mode rather than legacy or compatibility mode, and let the installer create a new GPT partition layout on the internal drive. Double-check that you have selected the correct disk before confirming the erase.
Unless the official documentation specifically tells you to change something, leave Secure Boot and most firmware settings at their defaults. Read the current Bluefin installation notes first, since atomic distributions can have different recovery and software-installation workflows than a traditional Fedora installation. Keep another computer or phone available in case you need to look up a step.

That’s a good point. I’ll check the software requirements for my program and verify hardware support before committing to the wipe.